KABUL - It was a regrettably
typical comment from an American reporter in this part of the world. "At
least it's news," he said of the Afghan election scuffle over the weekend.
"Otherwise, this is just a success story."
God forbid it be a success story.
But that's what it was here, no matter how hard the international media tried
to spin it. There were no car bombs raining body parts all over the polling
stations. There were no last-minute assassinations. There were no drive-by
shootings. The best they could come up with for "news" was grumbling
from hopelessly trailing opposition candidates about washable ink and threats
of a boycott. The media's disappointment was palpable.
Turnout was described as "massive." Men in turbans and baggy sharwals
lined up in orderly fashion to cast their ballots, many of them with
uncharacteristically chipper looks on their faces. One guy I saw at a mosque in
central Kabul
actually had mist in his eyes. Women voted beneath tents at one poll near a
block of wretched Soviet-era apartment blocks, lifting their burqas even in the
presence of foreign cameras. In Bamiyan, home of the giant Buddhas destroyed by
the Taliban, they stood in line to vote in the first snow of the season.
Exit polls conducted by the International Republican Institute concluded that
Interim President Hamid Karzai easily won the 50-percent-plus-one he needed to
avoid a potentially messy runoff vote. By Monday night, the grumblers in the
opposition had all-but backed off their threat to boycott the results and Afghanistan
seemed well on its way to joining the Democratic family of nations after the
obligatory investigation by United Nations experts.
A ride to the ballot-counting center near Darulaman
Palace, which was sorting
instead of counting ballots until the electoral dust kicked up over the weekend
clears, was a vivid reminder of just what that means. During the wars of the
1980s and 90s, west Kabul
was decimated, and it still bears the scars. Buildings half-collapsed into
piles of rubble abound. The once-grand homes of the Karta-e-seh, where I lived
as a boy in the early 1970s, and beyond are shells still pocked with bullet
holes and artillery wounds. Overturned Soviet armored personnel carriers litter
dusty lots, and palace itself is in ruins.
Afghanistan has come a long
way since the hellish days that produced the landscape of west Kabul,
and the prevailing picture is not, as Madeline Albright and Robin Cook wrote in
the International Herald Tribune last week, "deeply disturbing."
When Kabul
came out of its election-time shell on Monday, the picture was instead one of a
city reveling in the chaos of commerce. Real estate prices are rising, and the
din of new construction is pervasive. Foreign investment is up. There are three
times as many private cars on the streets as five years ago, and women can go
shopping without getting whipped by thugs from the Taliban Ministry of Vice and
Virtue for baring sockless ankles beneath their burqas. It is a chaos to which
Afghans have been accustomed for centuries, one they are happy to have back.
Elections alone don't make a democracy, and Karzai has much work ahead. He is
up against a culture of violence about as likely to give up its guns to
soldiers from Kabul as a bunch of Wyoming
ranchers would be likely to give up theirs to revenuers from Washington.
Attitudes toward women engrained over thousands of years will not change
overnight. Viable substitutes for the lucrative opium trade must be found, and
a balance-of-power between central government and regional/ethnic leaders will
not be easy to come by.
Despite their professed fondness for cultural relativism at home, certain
critics of American foreign policy seem to think that unless someplace looks
and feel like Boston or Brussels in short order then it must be deeply
disturbed. But if we borrow a page from these critics' own book and look at the
Afghanistan of 2004
relative to the Afghanistan
of September 10, 2001, then the picture is not deeply disturbing. It is deeply
heartening.
This may not be "news," but it should be.
The author is London Bureau Chief, Fox News.








